Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.